Crazy good day of spotting wildlife

Today (our last full day of this tour and trip) we headed out to the tip of Snaefellsnes Peninsula, to where the lighthouses are, and had just a fantastic day looking for birds and marine mammals.  We saw humpback whales breeching, orcas frollicking, at least one sperm whale, and a very striking, long and bushy tailed arctic fox.  Plus many birds, of course.   Incredible day -- really.

On the drive we continued to learn more about Iceland:

We passed the minimum security prison which has no guards or fences. Its 20 prisoners currently include two executives from Luxemburg bank wo were involved in the financial melt-down.  We were told they spend some of their time fishing and some of their time doing taxes for local village businesses. Hm.

We passed sheep grazing at the ocean's edge during low tide nibbling on seaweed, which the like very much.  Should a driver hit a sheep or lamb, they are required to contact the farmer and make restitution.  People therefore honk at sheep in the road but try very hard not to hit them. 

There are no mosquitos in Iceland although they are in nearby Greenland.  No one knows why.

Everyone here is free to enter and even camp one night on anyone's land, unless it is expressly forbidden.  Its called "the right to roam."   (They think we in the US are crazy to have so many guns)

Icelands, being egalitarian, are rather pleased their language has no real word for "please."

And now for some pictures:

These first four pix were taken en route to the lighthouses --

This is where we saw the humpback whales.

Below is where we saw orcas, more humpbacks, a sperm whale and the the arctic fox.

Site of an ancient well said to have magical waters.

Our very last stop--to see kittywakes.

Kittywakes on their nests.   

Ferry to Flatey island

The We got off to an early start today (breakfast at 7), so that we could catch the 9 am ferry to Flatey island.  The island was alive with birds and their sounds, and there was a little church with incredible paintings on the walls and ceilings.  Driving back from the harbor, we went by way of an old road through amazing moss covered lava fields, in search of better sightings of sea eagles.  We passed an old farmstead that had belonged to Snorri about 1000 years ago and Tryssti began to tell us the riveting tale of Snorri, Stiir and the Beserkers (agressive and wild men of the time who went to battle in their bear-shirts, no armor).  Quite a story, and only one of many Tryssti tells. 

After dinner we took a short boat trip out to a nearby island to see more puffins, shags and other sea birds.  Tryssti told us about all the things people do here on Midsumer to insure a healthy and prosperous year.   

Ferry above and Flatey island below

Next three photos are from the church on Flatey island

The next three photos are from the amazing lava fields where we did spy a sea eagle

This is our hotel

The view below was taken on our evening boat trip

And here is Tryssti telling us why we can't go to bed on Midsumer-- too much to do!

Perfect weather day for whale watching

Yesterday we went whale watching in Eyjaford(th)er.  Crisp. sunny and not too cold, it was a perfect day.  We saw many porpoises and then happened upon a group of 3 humpback whales.  We watched them blow and dive for almost an hour, until we had to start making our way back.  After lunch we took a ferry to the tiny Hrisey island where we combed the hills overlooking the harbor for ptarmigan and other birds.    For our last night at the guesthouse here, we were served a traditional Sunday dinner: leg of lamb, roast potatoes, red cabbage, peas, and rhubarb compot.  Everything but the peas were locally sourced.

This morning we got in the van after breakfast and started our drive westward toward Grundesfjord where we will be spending the last three nights of our tour.  On the way we stopped in a wood to look for kinglets (heard them but did not see them).  Later, while looking for sea eagles, we got a flat tire.  Lucky for us that Tryssti's skills include efficient tire changes.   

Above two photos from Hrisey island, this one is racks to dry fishheads for export

Hrisey island's village green has this wonderful trampoline

Our guesthouse the previous three days came with a pair of friendly border collies

The wood where we did not see kinglets, although we heard them

Conifers and horsetails

Oyster flowers

Tryssti changing the flat tire

Where the sea eagles live-- ethereal landscape.   Below Grundesfjord about 10 pm

Fifth day of our bird safari and we have the hang of it

Our typical schedule has been: breakfast at 8, leave by 9 for a full day on the road and spotting birds.  We eat a picnic lunch while we're out and about, taking in the geology, botany, and especially the birds.  We're back at about 5:30 or 6 with a little time to spare before dinner.  (At this particular guesthouse we've had a hot tub).  

Today we were able to see our first raptors of the trip--a merlin and the famed gyr(deer)falcon.  This was fantastic.  We also drove into blackfly territory.  Terribly annoying, but at least they don't bite.  Yesterday evening we saw a short-eared owl right near the guesthouse and Don is out this evening hoping to see it again.

Today's landscape

More landscape.  This is northeastern iceland.

Lunch stop.   Below - taking photos in the midst of black flies.

Iceland's national flower (and also the flower of the Sami people)

Bearberry--a very useful plant

An orchid just beginning to bloom

Above and below -- gyr falcon sighted! Above are our guides. 

More birds

Common Snipe in "drumming" dive, making a strange sound with the extended tail feathers

Rock Ptarmigan --- still showing some white plumage ... Looking for a mate

Red Throated Loon dancing

Red Throated Loon family

Great Skua

Short eared owl -- high above the river tonight 

Arctic Skua --- aka Parasitic Jaeger in the US

On our way to the north side of Iceland

Today we drove back to Rekjavik to join up with the main perimeter highway and make our way to the north side.   We passed huge greenhouses that are powered by geothermal energy which provides heat and light, and also pumps in extra CO2.   Anything can be grown but not all is commercially viable; almost all grains and fruits are imported.   We also passed through the fijord that served as the base of operations for the Brits and Americans during their occupation of Iceland during WWII.  Icelanders were glad the Brits arrived before the Germans.  (Today  iceland still has no defense forces of its own, but belongs to NATO.)

We also passed several places that ended inthe word "holt".   Apparently a holt used to mean "woods", but seeing as how the early Icelanders cut down most all their trees, it has come to mean "uncultivated flat area."  (With the implication that there used to be trees there.)

Surprisingly, the north side is warmer than where we've been.  I love the Old Norse saying--there is no bad weather, only bad clothes.